Stunning Stockholm
Picturesque buildings topped with mansard roofs and turrets, decorated with stone carvings and painted in peach, cream, apricot, rose, saffron, and buttercup, line the curving cobblestone streets on the small ancient island of Gamla Stan, “Old Town”. Along the waterfront float white archepelago boats, while bicyclists and pedestrians wander over bridges connecting the fourteen colorful islands that compose the city. Stockholm is beautiful. Forget London – Stockholm has the romantic setting, cosmopolitan culture, and court intrigue to make it an excellent setting for a Regency-style romance novel. Take Gustav III for example – the king instituted a renasaince of high art and culture, building a royal opera and theater in the 1790′s, and creating a noble society where the opera was the place to see and be seen. He was murdered by assassins at a masquerade at the opera, which was the inspiration for a Verdi opera. What better backdrop for a novel?
My Great Grandparents traveled back to Sweden in 1914 and my mother and I are loosely following my Great Grandfather’s trip journal. It took them sixteen days to reach to Stockholm by boat and train:
…after having traveled the whole night we arrived there the next day, August 6, at 10 o’clock in the morning, hungry and tired after having traveled 2 nights without any sleep to speak of. On our arrival there the town was full of refugees and in a mild uproar because of the war.
Fortunately it only took my mom and I forteen hours or so to reach Stockholm by plane. Today is our third day in the city. On Thursday we visited the “New” Royal Palace, so called because it has only been in existance for 250 years, as opposed to the previous Tre Kronar Castle that existed in its various forms since the 13th century, until it burned down and the new palace was built. It is fairly boring as palaces go, square with little detailing or carvings. There are no formal gardens attached. We walked around a few of the nearby small island parks, admiring the bike lanes and the historic boats and the fabulous architecture that makes me drool. I adore Stockholm!
Yesterday we walked to Skansen, the world’s first living history museum founded in the 1890′s, where historic buildings from all over Sweden were relocated. A few of the buildings were open with historians in traditional garb available to answer questions. I wish there had been more. It differs from an experience like Sturbridge Village or Colonial Williamsburg in that the buildings represent It also has animals from around Sweden, many of which are endangered. In the late afternoon we took a two-hour boat tour under the bridges of Stockholm and finally saw the modern part of the city. I prefer the historic districts, of course. It rained.
Today we will see the Vasa Museusm, the 17th century worlds-largest warship that, Titanic-like, sank on its maiden voyage. Fortunately it sank into some brackish mud that preserved it. Then we are taking the train to Uppsala, the original capital of Sweden built on a pagan sacrifice spot.
The weather is colder than we had anticipated, and we may have to indulge in the scandinavian’s talent for knitted wool sweaters. Fortunately for us, everyone speaks english here. I’ve finished two books by Stephanie Laurens, my new favorite Regency author. Her heroes are the epitome of true romance alpha-males: possesively protective, always honorable, gentlemen to the last. I intend to write a post on all her wonderful books, but it will have to wait till I get back from my travels.
