First Impressions: A city of lights, of fast moving people and colorful umbrellas, active streetscapes and efficient mass transit. A relentlessly modern metropolis of towering office buildings. Tiny snatches of history tucked in convenient corners. A fashionable shopper’s paradise where my no-nonsense shoes and bright green gortex jacket stood out like a beacon of uncool among polished black boots and sleek black peacoats. Wet asphalt, cloudy skies and drizzle–just like home. In many ways it felt like New York to me, just as big and crowded and incomprehensible. Rushing, well-dressed people on cellphones packing into small boxcars to be whirled through space. Each alone in a crowd.

Unlike New York, Tokyo is clean. I could eat off the pavement. People are infinitely polite and welcoming despite my inability to communicate. How could I ever feel homesick in a city with so many Starbucks? By pointing I ordered my hot tall mocha with whipped cream, unable to say “short” or “non-fat,” but still comfortingly familiar.

Food, as usual, was a problem. I envy my husband’s ability to order the unknown. “What’s good?” he asks if he speaks the language. He points to a random item on the menu if he doesn’t and savors the adventure. I am a vegetarian. Ovo-lacto. No meat. No seafood. Perhaps with a time machine I would enjoy Tokyo cuisine in the 1800′s, before the carnivores overthrew the Buddhist vegetarians. Fish is a staple of the Japanese diet. Tofu became my constant companion. Boiled, steamed and fried. Freshly solidified silken soy that made me think of toothless babies and geriatrics.

Eventually I gave up and embraced the barbarians. Pizza is king.

But it was, as always, the experience that matters. Stepping outside my comfort zone. Trying new things. I don’t have to fall in love with traditional cuisine to have been stretched and strengthened by my time abroad.

Our trip began in the sleek Ebisu neighborhood, which rekindled my dormant city planning dreams. The walkable streets! The high density mixed use! The efficient, effective subway system! The vibrant urban landscape! I saw all the ideals of textbook Smart Growth brought to life. Not a blighted building or trash-strewn alley to be seen.

We visited the Tokyo National Museum‘s permanent exhibit on Japanese art through history. Ryan ogled the calligraphy, claiming that no other culture had such an art of lettering. I disagreed of course. Hasn’t he heard of the Book of Kells? I was more attracted to the samurai armor and wished to see more on Washi, the art of paper making. Ueno Park, where the National Museum and others are located on acres of tree-lines paths, would be beautiful to visit in the spring. Someday I hope to return to see the cherry blossums.

After a dinner of more Tofu than you could ever possibly eat, we took the subway to Shibuya. Often called “the Times Square of Tokyo,” Shibuya is known for it’s bright lights and rushing people. The busiest pedestrian intersection in the world is located here, with a Starbucks overlooking it. The photo is from a different busy intersection nearby.

Part I: more photos on facebook

Part II: Minakami

Part III: return to Tokyo